Visit Kutch’s colourful craft village Nirona

In the scorching heat of Kutchi summers, where the relentless sun creates squiggly mirages and the arid land thirsts for water, creativity blooms, and the locals innovate with materials and textiles, giving birth to craft forms synonymous with Gujarat. At the heart of this vibrant kaleidoscope lies Nirona, the craft village of Kutch.

Here, amidst the dusty and dry lanes, a symphony of three art forms has deep roots – rogan, leatherwork, and lacquer craft dance together, bringing life to the parched surroundings.

Located at the western tip of Gujarat and about 40km from Bhuj, Nirona is known as the craft village of Kutch – a testament to the indomitable spirit of its 6,000-strong residents. Shaped by a rich history of trade relations with the Swat Valley, West Asia, and Africa, its artisans embody resilience and inspiration drawn from the challenging landscape.

Josh of rogan

Rogan painting takes centre stage in Nirona, a colourful tradition said to have originated in Persia around 300 years ago. As designs, drawn with precision using an iron stylus dipped in coloured gel, adorn various canvases, from wall art to curtains, table cloths, and apparel, rogan art becomes a living legacy. Geometric or floral, the patterns tell stories, each stroke carrying the weight of tradition. Boiled castor oil is used to create natural colours.

Mohammed Jabbar Khatri, a torchbearer of this art, recounted how rogan art faced oblivion until Prime Minister Narendra Modi breathed new life into it. Gifting a rogan painting, depicting the Tree of Life, to then US President Barack Obama in 2014, Modi’s gesture sparked a revival. 

“Our work was appreciated and we soon participated in many exhibitions, in India and abroad,” said Jabbar. Prime Minister Modi, a fervent admirer of rogan art, often employs it for diplomatic gifting, elevating its stature on the global stage. Last year, he gifted a rogan painting to Margrethe II, the Queen of Denmark, and gave his Japanese counterpart Fumio Kishida a wooden hand-carved box in 2022.

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“Interest and enquiries rise each time a VIP receives such a gift. This has helped create awareness and sustain interest in rogan art,” said Jabbar, a member of the Khatri family, spanning eight generations. It has been the custodian of this intricate art, with patriarch Abdul Gafur Khatri, or Gafurbhai, honoured with the Padma Shri in 2019.

According to Gafurbhai, rogan art was their primary source of livelihood when he learned the trade from his father. “It was not considered an art form back then. It was what we did to earn money. We used to transform swathes of fabric with the artwork, and local communities bought them to make what they pleased… ghaghra-choli, odhni, bedding, and more,” he said.

However, the legacy faces a challenge. “At present, just one extended family is practising this art,” lamented Jabbar. “To ensure its survival, Gafurbhai took a revolutionary step, training women who were traditionally kept away from this craft.” 

Over 400 women from nearby villages have embraced rogan art, breaking gender norms and contributing to its continuity. The training sessions began in 2010, and he has since then trained more than 400 women from nearby villages. “The training was free because we want to pass on the art to more and more people. We now employ about 25 of these women,” Jabbar said.

The Khatri family also organises demonstrations and workshops for tourists interested in knowing more about rogan art. The on-demand workshops last more than two hours, and give beginners a basic grasp of the art. “We have conducted workshops for NID and NIFT students too. They enjoyed it,” Jabbar said.

Leatherwork faces modern crossroads

Rogan art is not the only melody in the craft village of Kutch’s artistic symphony. Nirona is also known for its leatherwork and lacquerwork.

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Devji Poonja, a seasoned craftsman with decades of experience, said leather has been used to make harnesses for camels and horses, musical instruments, footwear, and storage containers for centuries. “The tanning expertise of Kutchi Maldharis, and the stitching and embroidery skills of Rajasthani Meghwal community created this popular craft form,” he explained.

Craftsmen now convert leather – in its original form or dyed – to make modern products such as chappals, juttis, bags, lamp shades, and mobile covers. Communities in Hodka, Dhordo, Sumarasar, Bhirandiyaro, and other Kutchi villages also work with leather.

However, leatherwork is facing a modern crossroads. Poonja observes a shift as craftsmen, enticed by factory work and a focus on kitschy aesthetics, forsake the traditional leather craft. The allure of tourism brings both opportunities and challenges, altering the craft’s essence.

Lure of lacquer

In the realm of lacquerwork, the Vadhas, a nomadic community that migrated from beyond Sindh before Partition, uses lac – resinous secretion from lac insects – to craft vivid items: spoons, spatulas, rolling pins and boards.

“Lac has been used in the subcontinent for centuries, as wood finish, skin cosmetic, lacquerware, and to dye wool, silk, and leather. In the Mahabharata, Duryodhana attempted to burn alive the Pandavas, his five cousins, in a palace made of lac in a bid to wrest the throne of Hastinapur,” said Lalji Vadha Mala, whose forebears crossed over into India decades ago. 

The tourist spotlight breathes new life into their centuries-old craft, offering a lifeline to a tradition that might have faded into obscurity.

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The lead image shows a model showcasing a stole embellished with rogan art (Photo by Teja Lele)

Teja Lele is an editor and writer based in India and writing on travel, architecture, food, and lifestyle. Her work has appeared in The Nikkei, South China Morning Post, The National News, Times of India, Indian Express, Mint Lounge, National Geographic Traveler, YourStory, and The Hindu.