Malayattoor, the holy hill with crosses and a ‘gold’ rock

Come the holy week for Christians, and the hill that leads to Malayattoor in Kerala sheds its usual windblown beauty to get swathed in a sea of fervour. As thousands of pilgrims take the 3-hour uphill trek, some carrying wooden crosses on their back, the sacred hill comes alive with sights of faith and devotion.

Malayattoor, Kerala

Christians in Kerala attend the famous pilgrimage at Malayattoor to see the footprints of St. Thomas on the rocks up the hill. It is said that St. Thomas, one of the apostles of Jesus Christ, came to the state to preach Christianity in AD 52. Local legend suggests that when he reached Malayattoor, the residents of the area did not accept him and drove him away. St. Thomas then fled up the hill to seek refuge.

It is believed that he spent some time praying atop the hill, during which he drew a sign of the cross on a piece of rock. The local people saw the rock shine and turn into gold. Seeing this, they started believing in him and St. Thomas’ story spread across the region.

The Malayattoor pilgrimage is especially popular during the holy week, which begins on Palm Sunday and leads up to Easter. The Good Friday procession is a big occasion, which draws huge crowds.

The pilgrimage begins at the foot of the Malayattoor hill. The trek has 14 spots where pilgrims stop to pray, remembering the “14 stations of the cross” mimicking Jesus’ journey to his crucifixion. 

Pilgrims prepare a wooden cross which has to be carried atop the hill while praying. Several volunteers hoist the cross on their shoulders and consider it a matter of pride.

The hill echoes with chants of St. Thomas’ name as the pilgrims walk their way carrying the wooden cross to the top of the “golden” hill at Malayattoor. People place their crosses at different points of the journey as an offering of prayer.

A sea of people congregate at the spot during the entire week, and especially on Good Friday. They arrive at the location in singles and in groups to be a part of this journey of faith.

The Good Friday procession concludes with devotees touching the replica of the body of Jesus Christ before he is laid to rest.

The Malayattoor pilgrimage concludes the Sunday after Easter, called in Kerala as ‘pudu Nyayar’ (new Sunday), when pilgrims gather in large numbers with hope of fulfilling their vows. This event is even more popular than Easter in the area.

(Photos by Deepa CB)