Tribal farmers of Nashik in Maharashtra have revolutionised mango cultivation, boosting productivity, while access to organic certification and international markets has led to successful exports of the kesar variety to the US.
In a timeless folk melody from Maharashtra, the kesar mango is praised for its saffron hue and crimson blush. Sung by the revered Sulochana Chavan, the ‘Queen of Lavani’, the song evokes the irresistible allure of the king of fruits, whisking away worries with just the mere thought of its succulence.
Grown by tribal farmers in the Nashik belt, the kesar mango variety embodies a narrative that transcends mere agriculture, weaving together cultures and tastes from remote farms in India to upscale supermarket aisles in the United States.
One such farm belongs to Yashwant Gawande, a 62-year-old farmer from a far-flung tribal enclave of Peth. Disenchanted with conventional farming practices, he decided to revolutionise mango cultivation within his community.
“The land is fertile here, but traditional farming was not making the most of it. We needed a method that would really work with our soil and weather conditions,” he said.
Gawande formed Shrimant Adivasi Bachat Gat Gavanpada — a collective of 40 farmers embracing innovative methodologies borrowed from Israel. By planting trees closer together, they maximised land utility, increasing tree density to a staggering 800 per acre, a stark contrast to the traditional 50. This shift not only optimised land productivity but also bolstered yields, thus fostering economic growth within the community.
Gawande’s farm emerged as a hotspot for mango enthusiasts, playing host to a vibrant festival, where visitors indulge in the succulent fruit to their heart’s content. This initiative cultivates a deeper appreciation for kesar mangoes and also instils a willingness to pay a premium, thereby enhancing local prosperity.
The influence of Nashik’s kesar mangoes extends far beyond local boundaries, thanks to the efforts of EcoKisan, which facilitates organic certifications and access to international markets, including the US.
“Our first shipment to the US included naturally grown organic mangoes, and it was very successful,” said Vishal Jadhav, managing director, EcoKisan, underscoring the fruit’s dual appeal of taste and sustainability.
Exporting these mangoes entails meticulous procedures to maintain freshness and quality, involving grading, careful packaging and swift transportation via air and sea routes.
“The process of moving perishable items like mangoes is complicated, but with full traceability and careful handling, we ensure our product remains top quality from the farm to the consumer,” Jadhav said.
Farmers typically earn between Rs 60 and Rs 70 a kg in local markets, but they receive Rs 100 a kg for their produce exported to the US. This successful endeavour benefits farmers and shows how traditional farming can adapt to meet today’s demands.
Officials from Maharashtra’s agriculture department also praise the project.
“This effort is about more than just farming successfully. It’s about setting a model that can be used for different crops and areas. It’s about creating a sustainable future for our farmers,” an official said.
Amid this year’s mango season, about 1,000 metric tonnes have found their way to US shores from the Lasalgaon irradiation plant in Nashik, a weighty rebound following a two-year halt in exports due to the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020 and 2021.
Maharashtra’s two irradiation centres, including the Lasalgaon facility operated by a private entity, play a vital role in processing and ensuring the safety of these exports. Irradiation, a compulsory procedure for mangoes destined for the US, guarantees compliance with safety regulations.
In 2022, mango exports resumed with 300 metric tonnes sent from Lasalgaon. The exported varieties include popular types like alphonso and kesar, which undergo processing at the Lasalgaon facility before being shipped directly to the US via Mumbai. In 2019, the country exported 1,300 metric tonnes of mangoes, with 680 metric tonnes processed at Lasalgaon and the remaining 620 metric tonnes at Vashi. Officials from the Lasalgaon irradiation plant said this year’s exports tripled compared to last year, indicating a robust recovery in trade.
The lead image on top shows a basket containing kesar mangoes. (Photo from Shutterstock)
Akansha Deshmukh is a Village Square Fellow 2023-24. She works as an independent investigative journalist.
