You can enjoy Himachali delicacies like lingdi sabzi, sidu and kadhi at Sagar Thakur dhaba, which is run by a ‘Pahadi didi’ next to a natural waterfall far from the maddening crowd of Manali.
The petit Sumita Thakur, better known as Pahadi didi, dishes out steaming hot plates of food in a Himachali dhaba to the hungry hopefuls who have trekked and driven up to the Jana waterfall, a little beyond Naggar and about 30 kilometres from Manali in Himachal Pradesh.
A metalled road that is precariously perched on steep hillsides takes you to the culinary gem, set amidst verdant greenery and right next to the waterfall that is located near a village by the same name. The eatery is known as Sagar Thakur dhaba.
“In season, we feed 100 to 200 people every day,” said Thakur, talking about the popularity of the Himachali dhaba that enjoys good footfall despite its remote location. “In fact, people seek out the waterfall and its environs just to enjoy the food we serve,” she added.
Seated here, you can dip your toes in the icy pool below the waterfall, and feel its cool spray, as you enjoy hot and freshly prepared delicacies from Thakur’s rustic kitchen.
“I started this place in 2011, right after I got married,” reminisced Thakur, who holds a B.Ed degree and studied arts in college. She and her husband Ramesh decided to start the Himachali dhaba near their home after they noticed that dozens of inquisitive and adventurous trekkers were coming up to the Jana waterfall every day.
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At that point in time their earnings weren’t enough to cover their expenses. “We have farms and orchards, that enabled us to make a living from other activities too,” pointed out Thakur, whose eatery has now become something of an internet sensation and haunt for even celebrities like Bollywood actors Sunny Deol and Ananya Pandey, and cricketer Rohit Sharma’s family, who have savoured Thakur’s handiwork.
Thakur, who exudes a warm and friendly energy, likes to scramble up the hillside and pluck the lingdi, the fiddlehead fern that only grows next to flowing spring water in season, to cook and serve it fresh to her guests. You can also enjoy lingdi pickle if Thakur has it in stock.
Additionally, you can gorge on other rare preparations like the bichchhu (stinging nettle) saag or chutney. Fluffy sidu (Himachali steamed bread), local red-rice, kadhi, rajma, other seasonal vegetables, sarson saag (mustard spinach) and makki roti (cornmeal flatbread) are some other dishes that are served as a part of a thali in this Himachali dhaba. Also available is fresh homemade ghee and shakkar (brown sugar) to go along with the thali (priced at Rs 200 each).
Thakur cooks the food on a woodfired chulha and prepares all the bread by hand. Her traditional cooking techniques, paired with fresh produce, impart great flavour to the fare on offer. The adventurous road up to the dhaba and the waterfall makes the outing that much more exhilarating.
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This Himachali dhaba opens at 8.45 am and closes at 7 pm. Consider it one of those places that you must tick off your bucket list when you visit Manali next. It might be a good idea to book in advance if travelling to the dhaba in season, which stretches between April and June. You can call the Thakurs at +91-91279-19009.
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The lead image on top shows Sumita Thakur, better known as Pahadi didi, in front of her eatery, Sagar Thakur dhaba, near Manali in Himachal Pradesh. (Photo courtesy Sumita Thakur)
Smriti Mukerji is a Delhi-based journalist turned freelance writer.
