Fermented fish business not only sustains indigenous livelihoods but also plays a vital role in meeting the high demand for fish products in Tripura, underscoring its significance in the state’s economy and culinary heritage.
Smoking, sun-drying, fermenting, pickling… Centuries ago, long before the advent of modern refrigeration, ingenious methods were employed to preserve food. In Tripura, one such culinary tradition that has stood the test of time is the art of making berma — fermented fish.
Berma’s potently pungent presence in Tripura’s kitchens is indispensable. Among the Tripuris, the largest indigenous community in the state, dried and fermented silver barb fish, locally known as puti, holds a special significance, lending depth and character to their stews, spicy curries and chutneys.
As berma finds its way into a multitude of dishes, imparting its distinctive taste to each, this versatile ingredient has emerged as a lifeline for indigenous fishmongers, sustaining their livelihoods. They ferment fish to ensure a continuous supply of this regional specialty, with people like Ashit Debbarma leading the way.
Ashit Debbarma operates a thriving berma business from his home atop Laltilapara hill in the small town of Bishramganj, located 35km from Agartala.
Upon approaching Ashit’s residence, visitors are greeted by the pungent aroma of fermenting fish, emanating from clay pitchers arranged in rows underground. These pots, each weighing about 50kg, store up to 1,200 pieces of puti, along with larger varieties like basapata (hairfin anchovy), as they undergo the fermentation process.
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Sukumar Debbarma, a labourer at Ashit’s establishment, oversees the traditional Tripuri method of making berma, washing and drying at least 60 baskets of fish before delicately stacking them inside the pitchers for fermentation.
Fish, carefully selected and prepared, undergoes a transformative journey as it is buried underground for a full six months.
“I check regularly so that no vermin crawls into the pitchers,” Sukumar said.
This patient process imbues the fish with a rich complexity of taste. Sukumar ensures that the fish attain the desired yellowish colour and aroma before they are deemed ready for sale in the market.
Reflecting on his journey in the business, Ashit recounted his modest beginnings in 1990, starting with a capital of Rs 1,200. He primarily sources fresh fish from traders in nearby Agartala and Teliamura, sharing a percentage of his sales with the partners involved.
“If I buy 1 kg of fish at Rs 400, about 10 percent from my sales go to the trader,” he said.
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Ashit’s artisanal fish business boasts an annual profit margin of Rs 1 lakh, which he has utilised to sustain his household and fund his daughter’s education. His business also includes sun-dried fish imported from Bangladesh, as well as shipments from Odisha and West Bengal.
His wife Manurani Debbarma plays a critical role in the business, selling the home-made fermented fish as well as dried varieties at the local market. She earns between Rs 1,000 and Rs 6,000 a day.
The demand for fish products remains robust in Tripura, where 99.35 percent of its population eats fish. Consumption ranks among the highest in India, according to a study conducted by WorldFish, Indian Council of Agricultural Research (ICAR), and other research agencies.
Rajulal Debbarma, executive officer at Tripura Apex Fisheries Cooperative Society, highlighted the imbalance between the demand for fresh fish and its supply in the state.
“While the average per capita annual fish consumption in India stands at 12kg, Tripura’s per capita consumption ranges from 25kg to 35kg. But there is insufficient availability of fresh fish in the state. Consequently, consumers resort to various fishery-based products, ranging from fermented to dried fish,” he said.
However, traditional fermentation methods have raised concerns regarding hygiene standards.
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“At times, people use their legs to push the fish deeper into the vats. This is unhygienic and people deem it pleasant,” Rajulal said, highlighting the need for adopting scientific measures in fish fermentation to address hygiene concerns.
In 2017, Rajulal introduced a new technique involving smaller pots for fermenting fish.
“Only men could handle the 50kg pitchers. The 3kg pots enable women to stuff fish with their hands, while maintaining profitability and ensuring adherence to hygiene standards,” he said.
Like most fermented foods, berma is rich in beneficial probiotics upon emergence from its subterranean abode. It is associated with a range of health benefits. For the people of Tripura, berma is not just a food — it is a cherished legacy, a culinary treasure that binds generations together in a shared appreciation for the flavours of the past and the promise of the future.
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The lead image on top shows Sukumar Debbarma opening an earthen pitcher containing sun-dried puti fish. (Photo by Aatreyee Dhar)
Aatreyee Dhar is a Village Square Fellow 2023-24. She works as an independent journalist in Assam.
