How Meghalaya’s Tura became a chess hub 

In a leafy public park in Meghalaya’s Tura town, a new sporting experience is pulling in the crowds. On any given afternoon, the park’s tranquil setting is transformed into a hive of strategic battles, all unfolding on 64 squares of black and white. 

Chess, the royal game of kings and knights, has found an unlikely home in this part of India — traditionally known for its love of football, cricket, traditional archery and martial arts.

The weekends bring several sessions of chess games, each one with its own fascinated audience, at DC Park. The players, ranging from curious children to thoughtful elders, sit across from each other, their eyes locked on what’s playing out in front of them.

Among the crowd is 12-year-old Adora K Marak, a budding chess enthusiast who’s learning the game, but is confident enough already to hand out her own lesson. “Here,” she said, her fingers flicking across the board. The “boards”, plastered on wooden tables, are squares with black and white blocks marked on them. 

On this day, she found herself just a move away from victory. But her young challenger surprised her with an unexpected counter, leading to her defeat. Undeterred, Adora promised herself that next time, she will emerge victorious.

Love of chess

The soaring popularity of chess in this region is largely due to the efforts of the Garo Hills Chess Association, an organisation dedicated to promoting the game among the youth in this remote region. 

Silkam, a senior player and tutor, is one of the key figures behind this movement. Adora is one of his many students, and under his guidance, she has already clinched an inter-school championship.

“Chess teaches children to be quiet, to focus, it’s a way to calm their minds,” said Silkam, who frequently paces around DC Park, offering advice and encouragement to the players. 

The park itself has become a symbol of the town’s chess fever, with signage quoting grandmasters, vibrant graffiti and a neon red sign declaring “I Love Chess” all contributing to the atmosphere. To keep the momentum going, the association regularly hosts tournaments in the park, sometimes pitting local clans against each other or organising surprise contests. 

“We offer chocolate as a prize,” Silkam said. 

Public chess sessions are held every Sunday afternoon, drawing both seasoned players and newcomers to the park’s chess tables. The sessions start at 2.30pm and last until 5.30pm, or an hour earlier in the winter months.

But DC Park is just one of the many venues where the Garo Hills Chess Association is making its mark. The association’s Facebook page shows images of chess games being played on footpaths, with bystanders encouraged to join in for a chance to win prizes, such as Rs 500 for defeating three members of the association in a row.

Die is cast

Founded in 2013 under the aegis of the Meghalaya Chess Association, the Garo Hills Chess Association began as a grassroots initiative with a mission to popularise chess among schoolchildren and young adults. However, despite their enthusiasm, the group initially struggled to gain traction. 

“Chess is often overlooked in this region, where cricket and football dominate,” said Jesse James Marak, the association’s president. “Khasi Hills is far more advanced in terms of sports, compared to the Garo Hills.”

Funding was also a challenge in the early days. The association relied on donations and contributions from its members to keep going, and it wasn’t until 2015 that they received their first financial support from the District Sports Authority — a modest sum of Rs 20,000. Despite these hurdles, the association persisted, gradually building a following. 

The turning point came in 2022, when then West Garo Hills deputy commissioner Swapnil Tembe, a chess player himself, issued an order mandating that all schools in the region form chess clubs. This directive sparked a wave of interest in chess, leading to the establishment of clubs in schools and colleges, including Don Bosco College, Casarina Public School and Sherwood School in Tura. 

“Even remote villages like Dangre now have their own chess clubs,” said Tengrang Sangma, general secretary of the Garo Hills Chess Association. 

Tembe’s support didn’t stop there. Recognising the Garo Hills Chess Association as the most active during the Covid-19 pandemic, he helped establish an exclusive chess arena at DC Park. The association has also donated chess books to a small library in the DC office, making it easier for aspiring players to learn the game without having to purchase expensive materials. “Those who can’t afford to buy books can borrow them,” said Silkam.

Remarkable results

With this momentum, the association began organising FIDE-rated tournaments, giving local players the opportunity to earn international ratings without the expense of travelling to cities like Guwahati, Kolkata or Delhi. 

These tournaments, held both locally and at the interstate level, have become a regular feature in Tura. The association has been careful to make these events accessible to all, offering concessions to school students and waiving fees for underprivileged participants.

“We charge Rs 500 from school students and Rs 1,000 from others. But if someone can’t afford to pay, we don’t charge them,” Silkam said.

The impact of these efforts is already evident. “The top four chess players in Meghalaya are from Garo Hills,” said Silkam. “When we started, there were no rated players here. Now, there are 40-50 rated players in Garo Hills alone.”

The association also supports promising players who qualify for national tournaments but face financial difficulties. Silkam recalled one such case: “We helped a player named Aranorikrin Rukram participate in the nationals when his family was struggling. We arranged the funds for his stay in Delhi during the two-week tournament.”

As chess continues to flourish in Tura, the Garo Hills Chess Association remains committed to its goal: to see a chess grandmaster or international master emerge from their region. With each passing tournament and every new player, that dream comes closer to reality.

The lead image on top shows the chess arena at DC Park in Meghalaya’s Tura town. (Photo by Aatreyee Dhar)

Aatreyee Dhar is a Village Square Fellow 2023-24. She works as an independent journalist in Assam.