Driven by a passion for the Tangkhul Naga cuisine and the farmers who sustain it, Zeinorin Angkang, a 32-year-old confectioner from Ukhrul in Manipur, became a dedicated activist for indigenous food systems. Here’s her story in her own words.
I’m a big foodie, and when I lived in the cities, what I missed most about my hometown Ukhrul was the food. Every dish was bursting with flavour, and each season brought something new to savour.
When I moved back home in 2017, I expected my nostalgic cravings for home-cooked meals to fade with time, but quite the opposite happened. I fell even more deeply in love with the diverse and nutritious foods my home had to offer. Food became intertwined with my identity, shaping the way I approached my work.
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Driven by my entrepreneurial spirit, I set out to celebrate the exotic food culture of our region by launching a confectionery brand called Hillwild. I crafted chocolates infused with local treasures like sumac berries, plum and the fiery king chili. The response was overwhelming, and my small business began to thrive.
As I collaborated with indigenous farmers to source raw materials for my chocolates, I grew increasingly appreciative of their vital role in our food system. Yet, I couldn’t ignore the marginalisation they faced, particularly indigenous women. Being a woman myself, their plight hit close to home.
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Determined to make a difference, I started aiding the farmers in whatever ways I could — securing loans, providing seeds, and helping with marketing. I became deeply entrenched in the indigenous food system, finding fulfillment in empowering these communities.
When the pandemic dealt a blow to my chocolate business, I shifted my focus entirely to supporting indigenous women farmers. Hillwild transformed from a confectionary brand into an organisation dedicated to enhancing the livelihoods of indigenous farmers through entrepreneurship.
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Today, I proudly collaborate with more than 2,000 indigenous farmers across Manipur, Nagaland, and Meghalaya. Their produce, renowned for its quality, now reaches international markets, offering them improved incomes and recognition for their traditional farming practices, which are inherently eco-friendly and resilient to climate change.
Looking ahead, I aim to make perishable crops more accessible in local markets while facilitating the export of high-value cash crops. Also, I’m committed to rewilding and revitalising tribal forests devastated by intensive cultivation and chemical fertilisers. One such project is underway in Teinem village of Ukhrul district, where we’re reforesting barren land with endemic fruit trees and crops.
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My efforts haven’t gone unnoticed — I was honoured as a Kofi Annan Changemaker in 2021 and served as an advocacy specialist for the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) in 2023. While these recognitions are gratifying, my work with indigenous communities is far from over.
Indigenous people possess resilient and sustainable food systems that offer a promising alternative to the broken and unhealthy global food system. I remain dedicated to championing indigenous farmers and women who safeguard our biodiversity and provide nourishing food for all.
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Worngachan A Shatsang is a freelance journalist based in Ukhrul, Manipur, and a Rural Media Fellow 2022 at Youth Hub, Village Square. He writes about football, rural life, farming and environmental issues.