Kanakapura’s idli king shares secret recipe

Think of it this way: With just some fermented rice and black gram batter, most south Indian homes and eateries make idli. Some are not very exciting, fluffy or tasty, but still idli. 

However, when this healthy breakfast option, or rather anytime snack, is steamed on wood fire at a humble food stall in Kanakapura, a bustling city 65km south of Bengaluru, the simple idli becomes a remarkable delight.

In a world perpetually swayed by shifting culinary trends, the Kote Mane Idli stall has woven a story of taste and tradition for more than half a century. It is a treasure trove of flavours, meticulously nurtured by the seasoned hands of 68-year-old Ramachandra. 

The chronicle of Kote Mane Idli began long before the 1970s, when Ramachandra’s father Sheshappa set the wheels in motion. Upon completing his 10th grade, Ramachandra followed in his father’s footsteps, guided by a solemn commitment to preserve the essence of their idli heritage. 

Ramachandra eventually took up the mantle of this beloved establishment on Agrahara road in 1972, shouldering the responsibility of its cherished legacy.

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“The idlis I make are affordable, cheap, and served with a lot of love. I have always followed one method, one formula in my cooking. I have not changed anything. People appreciate my idlis because I always steam them using firewood, without resorting to electric stoves or gas burners,” the idli master said. 

During Sheshappa’s humble beginning, ten idlis were priced at a mere Re 1. In an era where prices have soared, six idlis cost just Rs 20 now. Ramachandra still clings to expensive firewood as his culinary ally, preserving a taste that has been cherished across generations.

A secret formula

Ramachandra’s day begins promptly at 4 am, without exception. Today, aided by son Anant and daughter-in-law Nirosha, his eatery makes up to 4,000 idlis daily. Each idli boasts the signature of a secret formula, a time-honoured family recipe passed down through generations.

When asked about the allure of his idlis, Ramachandra responded with characteristic modesty, revealing a precise blend of 3/4th cup of boiled rice and 1/4th cup of urad dal. This simplicity, coupled with mastery, has garnered him a legion of devoted patrons.

The wood fire imparts a unique smoky flavour to each idli and maintains an authentic taste that has stood the test of time.

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The aroma of freshly steamed idlis envelopes the idyllic setting of Kote Mane Idli, which emanates a distinctly traditional ambience, shunning any semblance of commerciality. People travel from other cities and villages for Ramachandra’s idlis.

The crowning glory of these idlis is the spicy red chutney that accompanies them. A fiery blend of Guntur and Bydagi chilies, fresh pudina, and chana dal, the relish perfectly complements the round and soft idlis.

Murugan, a satisfied patron from Bangalore, sang praises for Kote Mane Idli, saying it offers incredible value for money, serving generous portions of soft and delectable idlis. 

“Ramachandra Anna manages everything singlehandedly. I brought my friends along to experience the culinary delights for themselves,” he said.

Happy patrons

Kote Mane Idli opens at 6.30 am and hums with a lively crowd until 11 am. A brief break follows, during which Ramachandra recharges, preparing for the evening shift at 5 pm. It is during this interlude that he crafts the heart of his offerings – the batter and chutney, all from scratch. This meticulous attention to detail and unwavering commitment to freshness set his idlis apart.

What truly distinguishes Ramachandra is his indomitable spirit. Despite grappling with partial hearing loss, he faces the sizzling griddles with an everlasting smile. His hands dance with grace, fashioning idlis that are a manifestation of affection.

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Krishna, a loyal patron for the past 30 years, warmly reminisced: “The idlis are exceptionally soft, akin to our homemade idlis. My cherished memories of this place extend from my childhood, visiting with my father, and now, I continue the tradition by bringing my own family. Our weekend breakfasts have become a delightful family ritual, all thanks to the exquisite idlis served at Kote Mane.”

In a swiftly evolving culinary landscape, Kote Mane Idli is more than a local gem. It stands tall as an enduring ode to tradition and taste. The legacy initiated by Sheshappa continues to flourish, guided by the unwavering hands and indomitable spirit of Ramachandra.

The lead image at the top shows Ramachandra at his workstation, crafting culinary magic (Photo by Apta Ramesh)

Apta Ramesh is a former television show producer, and presently a freelance journalist.