Nestled at the foothills of Patnitop, Kud stands as a sweat stop for Jammu-Srinagar highway travellers. Sweet making here isn't just a job, but a cherished labour of love, sustaining families and community bonds.
In the tranquil town of Kud, a gem nestled amidst the splendour of the Patnitop region in Jammu and Kashmir, a symphony of taste and tradition has been flourishing for decades.
As the Jammu-Patnitop-Srinagar highway winds through this township, it attracts thousands of travellers and tourists daily. The strategic location, coupled with its natural beauty, beckons weary travellers to pause and rejuvenate. However, what sets Kud apart is not just its scenic charm, but its transition from a pastoralist community to a thriving centre of sweet production.
Kud sweets, renowned for their exquisite flavour, have become a timeless delight cherished by travellers journeying along the iconic highway. Rooted in buffalo milk, desi ghee, and the art of local preparation, these sweets have not only tantalised taste buds but also woven an intricate tapestry of livelihoods and resilience.
Among the many stories that weave through Kud’s transformation, one stands out: that of Fatima Bibi. Each day, as the sun’s first rays grace Dujana village, nestled in the heart of the Patnitop area, the rhythms of daily life awaken. Among those orchestrating this symphony is Fatima.
But her daily routine of milking three buffalos, a vital chore for her family’s sustenance, was momentarily disrupted when her son fell ill. As she grappled with the predicament of getting her morning yield to the nearby market, a young neighbour came to her aid. This simple act of kindness captures the essence of a community where dairying and sweet making have intertwined, shaping the lives of its inhabitants.
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Fatima’s story is mirrored by countless others. Rising before dawn, these villagers embark on a journey down the hilly trails, spanning 3km, to ferry their freshly milked cattle to the thriving Kud sweet market. This daily ritual ensures that the market brims with the life-giving essence of buffalo milk, a cornerstone of Kud’s culinary legacy.
“I’ve been doing this for two decades now. Supplying over 30 litres of milk to the market has become both my family’s lifeline and a way of preserving our heritage,” said Yaqoob Khan, a 46-year-old villager whose commitment reflects a deeper connection to his roots. With increasing demand, Yaqoob expanded his cattle rearing, capitalising on the year-round demand that has stabilised his family’s income.
The transformation of Kud from a quiet town into a sweet hub was a journey fuelled by innovation and entrepreneurial spirit. From the tea stalls that once dotted the landscape emerged sweet makers who recognised the potential in crafting sweets from buffalo milk and desi ghee.
As the quality of these locally made delights garnered recognition, Kud’s reputation as a culinary destination blossomed. Today, whether it’s the Kudi Barfi or Kudi-Patisa, Kud has become a must-stop haven for travellers on the Jammu-Srinagar and Jammu-Patnitop routes, where the fusion of traditional techniques and fresh, organic ingredients results in an irresistible symphony of flavours.
Munawar Shah, a 65-year-old sweetmaker, reminisces about his humble beginnings. “Initially, there were only a few tea stalls in the village. Drivers would stop their trucks and buses to refresh themselves with steamy milky chai. But soon, a few villagers ventured into sweet making, and the rest is history.”
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The allure of Kud sweets has transcended geographical confines, touching hearts and palates far beyond the region. From truck drivers in Baramulla to excursionists returning from Patnitop, the sweets have become tokens of affection, symbols of journeys made sweeter by their indulgence.
Munawar Shah, the owner of Zam Zam Sweets, notes that while the bulk of their sweets still journeys to Kashmir valley, the demand from other corners of the country has risen steadily, even during festivals.
Within Kud’s modern-looking shops that line the highway, the creation of these delectable sweets unfolds. Fresh buffalo milk, desi ghee, saffron, Khoya powder, and maida converge in precise proportions, forming the backbone of the world-class confections. Among the array of offerings, the Patissa stands out.
“Every time, on my way back to Kashmir, I ensure that I take packs of Kudi-Patisa home. Not only family members but relatives and friends also keep asking for it,” said Nazir Ahmad, a truck driver from Baramulla.
Even in the face of change, such as the opening of the Nashri tunnel in 2016 that initially raised concerns about Kud’s future, the township’s reputation and demand for its sweets remained unwavering.
Rather than succumbing to the tunnel’s bypass effect, sweet makers and traders adapted, opening new sale points along the highway from Nashri to Udhampur, ensuring the continuation of Kud’s legacy, according to Zaheer Ahmad, owner of Iqra Sweets and the president of Kud Sweet Makers Union.
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The impact of Kud sweets reverberates through its socio-economic fabric. These sweets breathe life into hundreds of families, serving as a critical source of livelihood. A symbiotic relationship between sweet makers and villagers from neighbouring hamlets forms the backbone of this trade — a harmonious blend of culture and community spirit that stands the test of time.
The lead image at the top shows a sweet shop selling traditional Kudi sweetmeats (Photo by Nasir Yousufi)
