Ladakh mother carves Tibetan legacy on stone
Tsering Palmo, a Tibetan refugee in Ladakh, is the only woman who carves Buddhist mantras and prayers on what are popularly called mani stones – believed to make one’s passage to the next world easier – upholding an important tradition of her ancestral land.
Tsering Palmo, a Tibetan refugee in Ladakh, and the only woman who carves Buddhist mantras and prayers on mani stones narrates how she continues a Tibetan tradition – in her own words.
The work I do does not make me rich, earning me just about Rs 25,000 a month.
But it’s undoubtedly a very noble one.
While visiting the Himalayas, particularly Ladakh, did you ever wonder about those piles of stones with letters engraved on them along pathways, mountain passes and near every monastery and Buddhist stupa?
Well, I am the one who engraves the letters on them.
The stones are locally called mani stones. The letters inscribed on them are mantras and prayers.
Mani stones are part of an important cultural heritage of Tibetan Buddhists.
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I’m possibly the last and only woman mani stone carver on this side of the border.
When a Tibetan dies – we all originally hail from Tibet – engraving prayers on stones is an important ritual.
Mani stones are believed to make the passage of the departed to the next life clearer and easier.
It’s important to carve the six-syllabled mani prayer – Om Mani Padme Hung – on the smooth surface of a specially collected stone.
These stones make up the piles that greet you in Ladakh.
My amney – grandfather – carved prayers on stones. I watched him intently and over the years I acquired the skills.
I’m 39 now and I’ve been doing this for the past 15 years.
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It’s rather time-consuming and laborious. You need patience and perseverance.
My hard work begins with collecting the stones from mountains and valleys.
I usually book a truck and hire helpers to collect the stones from Meru-Tse Thang near Matho village, some 25 kms from Leh. We usually make three trips a year.
Not every stone qualifies to be a mani stone. They must be smooth and also hard to be chiselled.
Having selected the stones, I colour them in red and then inscribe the prayers.
My hands ache and my eyes hurt at times. But I never flinch from my task.
Because I must do my part in making the passage of the departed soul to the other world smooth.
I’m a mother of three lovely children.
At stake is not just my livelihood. Rather, for me, carving mani stones is an important part of preserving Tibetan culture and heritage.
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It hurts to see the younger generation not showing much interest in the mani stones.
I’ve tried to encourage others in taking up this profession, but none has shown interest so far.
The burden on me to carry on with the tradition has therefore multiplied.
I could be poor, but I’m a very proud mani stone carver. I’m super proud of my calligraphy skill and craftsmanship.
Fortunately, tourists visiting Ladakh show greater interest in mani stones. I inscribe their names and prayers on the stones and the tourists happily buy them.
So, next time you visit Ladakh, do watch out for the heaps of mani stones.
And do spare a thought for the hard work that goes into preserving this Tibetan heritage.
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Reporting and photographs by Dawa Dolma, a freelance journalist based in Leh. She writes about climate change, communities, and culture of the Himalayas. She is a Rural Media Fellow 2022 at Youth Hub, Village Square.