For Muniswamy, owner of SM Nisarga Farms, the coffee plantation transcends mere farming as it’s a commitment to nurturing a green sanctuary in the arid landscape of Muddenahalli and its neighbouring hills.
TS Eliot once said he measured out his life with coffee spoons. The same can likely be said about many members of our society. Growing up in Karnataka, which accounts for more than 70% of the coffee produced in the country, M Muniswamy who owns a homestay now in Muddenahalli, would often start his days the same way: with coffee.
Rooted to this coffee culture, Muniswamy ventured into uncharted territory 25 years ago to transform the barren land in his native village into a thriving coffee plantation.
Muddenahalli village, nearly 60km north of Bengaluru, now boasts a lone coffee estate – a testament to Muniswamy’s pioneering spirit in cultivating Arabica plants in a region unfriendly to its usual habitat. The odds seemed stacked against him in an arid, drought-prone climate, yet his SM Nisarga Farms thrived against all odds.
The challenges were abundant, especially considering the Arabica coffee crop’s preference for a cooler climate, which starkly contrasts with the region’s soaring temperatures, often exceeding 30°C in summer. “We are the only coffee plantation in the area and that means we have to keep experimenting. We can’t learn from others”, Muniswamy said.
In pictures: Coffee cultivation at an unlikely place
Muddenahalli, renowned as the birthplace of M Visvesvaraya, a stalwart in shaping India’s engineering and industrial landscape, echoes a rich history. The village encapsulates his legacy through his birth home, a museum, and a samadhi. As visitors explore these landmarks, the towering presence of Skandagiri, the tallest hill in the region, stands sentinel.
A 10-minute drive from Muddenahalli unveils Nandi Hills, a popular tourist destination. Here, historic forts, temples, trekking routes, and adventurous activities like paragliding beckon enthusiasts.
Muniswamy recalled a time when the hills that surrounded his village boasted dense forests, and the climate embraced a refreshing coolness. However, the landscape underwent a drastic change, with rampant deforestation contributing to rising temperatures.
Drawing inspiration from his experiences during his posting in Chikkamagaluru, where coffee plantations flourished under the protective canopy of thick trees, Muniswamy recognised the crucial role of tree cover in cultivating coffee on his land in Muddenahalli.
“I travelled throughout Chikkamagaluru district for work. That’s how I came up with the idea that if I plant a lot of trees on my land, it could be suitable for coffee too,” he said.
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Supported by his agriculturist parents and fuelled by relentless effort, he has successfully established a rich green canopy encompassing diverse tree species in a landscape that often echoes with the whispers of water-guzzling eucalyptus trees.
Denuded areas that once lacked greenery now showcase vibrant slopes adorned with coffee shrubs intermingled with indigenous tree varieties. “Ours is the only land with a lush green canopy of over 30 varieties of trees, including silver oak, mango, casuarina, fig, banyan, jackfruit, and teak. These trees not only provide shade but also bring about a significant temperature drop of at least 2 degrees compared to the surrounding areas,” he said.
Muniswamy attributed this refreshing microclimate to the strategic integration of different varieties of trees among his coffee crop in Muddenahalli. However, the significance of shade-grown coffee goes beyond temperature regulation. Muniswamy emphasised the importance of planting trees not just for environmental revitalisation but also for enhancing the flavour profile of the coffee beans.
The initial years saw a bountiful crop, with a remarkable harvest of 2.5 tonnes in one exceptional year. However, an unforeseen challenge arose in the form of monkeys, whose increased presence posed a threat to the coffee plants.
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“There are so many of them now. They feast on the coffee fruit and disrupt the yield. We have tried many ways to discourage them, but nothing has worked so far,” Muniswamy said.
Despite their mischief, he maintains a compassionate outlook toward the primate population, understanding their plight amidst diminishing natural habitats. “We can’t blame them. They don’t have the vast forests they need to thrive. That’s why they come to our villages.”
To counter the threat and sustain his farm, Muniswamy decided to diversify and ventured into hospitality. Guest cottages were built, providing visitors with an opportunity to immerse themselves in the serenity of the coffee plantation. The supplementary income generated from these accommodations became crucial in overcoming challenges like the farm’s low yield.
He has dramatically scaled up the homestay business. Today, a five-storey building with 30 rooms welcomes guests looking to spend a few days amidst nature. The farm’s serene ambience attracts repeat visitors.
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“Guests are very happy to stay in our coffee plantation. A lot of them are foreigners with a passion for writing, meditation and nature. To support them, we prohibit smoking, alcohol and loud music. This is why they keep coming back to experience peace and serenity. Whatever the challenges we face in running this farm, I believe this green space we have created must be protected and preserved,” Muniswamy said.
The challenges don’t deter Muniswamy’s innovative spirit. On an adjacent parcel, he experiments with a fusion of areca nut trees and coffee. “If anyone sees coffee plants in this region, they should know it is the engineer Muniswamy. Coffee plants are my signature,” he signed off.
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