Kashmiri Muslims preserve ancient Shiva temple
The existence of an ancient Shiva temple in the predominantly Islamic village of Payer in Pulwama becomes a tale of communal harmony and historical preservation.
Pulwama presents a paradox in paradise, despite its turbulent history tied to the region’s long insurgency since the 1990s. This district in south Kashmir has an eternal appeal with visitors seeking solace in its rolling rice and saffron fields, meadows, meandering ravines, and evergreen-forested valleys. Adding a splash of ancient spirituality completes the picture-perfect postcard as Muslims preserve an ancient Shiva temple in Pulwama in Kashmir.
About 4km from Pulwama town, the village of Payer cradles a hidden treasure dating back more than two millennia. At first glance, the structure resembles a square stone cenotaph or chhatri with open sides, but a closer inspection reveals an ancient temple dedicated to lord Shiva from the supreme Hindu trinity.
The shrine has a two-foot-tall Shivling inside – a testament to the region’s deep-rooted connection with Shaivism. That scores of Shiva temples existed in Kashmir of the olden days is not a matter of surprise, but when seen from the perspective of the changed situation, it is remarkable that this small shrine with intricate carvings still stands tall in a park in this remote village.
All the 300 families of Payer follow Islam, a religion that prohibits idol worship. But the residents host this Shiva temple from 9AD with pride and care – untouched by the hands of worshippers, yet immaculately maintained.
Hamid Khan, a 63-year-old retired Urdu teacher, said no Hindu family has lived in Payer for decades. “I was born here, I have not seen any non-Muslim family living here.”
Despite being followers of Islam, the villagers have safeguarded this ancient Shiva temple in Kashmir, respecting its historical and emotional significance. It remains unscathed by the violence that has affected some surrounding areas, a living example of coexistence in a region marked by turmoil.
The shrine-keeper
A paved road leads to Payer, and within the village, a narrow path guides to the temple located in the sparsely populated southern end. This area also encompasses a cemetery and two mosques.
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A tall iron fence atop a short concrete and stone wall surrounds the park and the temple, preventing entry for stray animals. Access is restricted to two iron gateways – the larger one remains consistently closed, and the smaller one is frequently padlocked.
The key to the gate rests with Ghulam Nabi Shaikh’s family. His daughter-in-law Akhtar is the temple’s caretaker. “No one comes to the temple, so there is little litter or dirt. Sweeping the place once or twice a week is enough,” she said, sweeping dry leaves and twigs that have fallen from a huge walnut tree shading the structure.
The resilient old walnut tree thrives without human intervention, relying solely on winter snowfall for nourishment and water. The surroundings feature minimal vegetation, with only a handful of self-grown bushy fennel plants.
The temple, protected by the government as an archaeological site, restricts traditional worship practices like lighting incense sticks and fire lamps. Akhtar picked up two fallen walnuts and said: “Take these. The temple’s prasad for you.”
Preserved heritage
The question arises – why does a temple from the ninth year of the first century stand where there’s no one to worship? A hint of history emerges. The initial phase of Islam’s arrival in Kashmir possibly saw Payer as a Hindu settlement. Over time, the inhabitants may have either embraced Islam or migrated elsewhere.
Despite this transformation, the temple retained its significance, protected by successive generations, preserving it as a link to their shared past. The local Muslim population express no animosity towards the temple, and ensure its protection from any potential harm.
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The Shiva temple of Payer is not merely a relic. It’s a symbol of resilience and communal understanding. Despite the government declaring it a protected building, villagers welcome occasional visitors, even allowing rituals like “Jalabhishek” and flower offerings. This transcends religion and stands as a testament to the coexistence Pulwama still harbours.
Architectural marvel
Maqbool Shaikh, an elderly villager and retired engineer from the archaeology department, marvels at the temple’s architectural significance. “The temple has been built by carving ten heavy stones of large size,” he explained, detailing the recent renovations that restored its glory.
The temple reveals a captivating blend of dark grey stones with accents of light-coloured stone, particularly on the stairs. The structure boasts a square sanctum facing east, adorned with two distinctive mouldings – a plain torus and a filleted torus at the base. The sanctum features four doorways opening towards cardinal directions, with access exclusively from the east. These rectangular doors are surrounded by trefoil arches enclosed in triangular pediments.
The pilasters supporting the pediments are crowned with capitals depicting a pair of geese each, while those of the trefoil arches carry bull capitals with scarves tied to their humps.
Each arch unveils sculptures depicting Shiva in his many forms. On the eastern side, Shiva is portrayed seated cross-legged, while the northern side showcases Bhairava. The western side exhibits a six-armed Nataraja, and the southern side features a two-armed, three-headed Shiva seated on the pedestal, accompanied by Uma and other divine entities.
The sanctum culminates in a two-tier pyramidal roof, featuring alternating projections and recessed square spaces. The upper tier of the roof displays arched niches, while the lower tier is adorned with intricate floral designs.
From the inside, the roof reveals intricate details — a lotus flower at its centre and spandrels carrying figures of yakshas. This architectural marvel stands as a cherished heritage, showcasing the rich cultural and artistic legacy of Payer.
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The lead image at the top shows the ancient Shiva temple in payre village of Pulwama, Jammu and Kashmir (Photo by Sanjay Vohra)
Sanjay Vohra is a multimedia journalist with experience of more than three decades during which he has worked with various media houses including Dainik Jagran, Business India TV and Zee News in different capacities. He is passionate about bike riding and travelling.
