As Koraput coffee of Odisha embarks on an arduous journey to secure a geographical indication tag, farmers believe the recognition isn’t just a label but a celebration of their unique contribution to the global coffee tapestry.
The eastern state of Odisha holds two gastronomic gems close to its heart – the internationally acclaimed syrupy sweet rasagola and the quietly esteemed coffee grown in Koraput, the state’s southernmost district.
But much like the ball-shaped dumplings of curdled milk, Koraput coffee’s endeavour to carve its niche with individual recognition by securing the geographical indication (GI) tag has become a saga of shared heritage. Awarded to Bengal in 2011 and contested by Odisha, the legal tussle over rasagola concluded in 2016, bestowing the GI tag upon both states, acknowledging the intertwined birthplaces of this culinary masterpiece.
Now, Koraput coffee is poised at a similar crossroads, yearning for its distinct identity. It currently falls under the “Araku Valley Arabica” GI tag, awarded in 2019 to coffee from both Andhra Pradesh and Odisha. GI is a sign used on products that have a specific geographic origin, which gives them certain qualities or a reputation, such as sparkling wine from Champagne and Darjeeling tea.
Odisha’s first coffee plantation began as a fancy experiment in the reddish-brown soil of Bichalkota village in Koraput – the state’s tribal heartland – by the polyglot Maharaja of Jeypore, Rajbahadur Rama Chandra Deo, in the 1930s. But the brew came of age only recently when the Odisha government launched Koraput Coffee as a brand in 2019, pushing its sales vigorously in the domestic and international market through outlets and e-commerce platforms.
As of 2023, the district boasts approximately 3,600 coffee farmers, witnessing a steady rise from 3,000 hectares in 2010 to an expansive 7,100 hectares in 2023.
Sushanto Panda, a coffee producer, envisions a promising future for Koraput coffee, drawing inspiration from the rasagola’s journey.
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“The similarities between the two cases indicate that Koraput coffee may well follow in the footsteps of rasagolla and receive its due recognition. For the Koraput coffee growers, obtaining a GI tag is a symbol of pride and a testament to their passion for their craft,” he said.
The charm of Koraput lies in its unique terroir, nestled in the embrace of the Eastern Ghats range – with rolling hills, valleys, roaring rivers, spectacular waterfalls, deciduous forests, and a pleasantly humid, sun-drenched climate perfect for coffee bushes to thrive and fruit all year round.
Here, at altitudes ranging from 3,000 to 4,500 feet above sea level, coffee undergoes a patient maturation process, yielding beans with a dense, intricate flavour. Known for its bright acidity, chocolatey undertones, and lingering floral notes, Koraput coffee narrates its story through each sip. The richness of Arabica with a hint of the acidic Robusta.
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The district authorities and coffee growers educate people about the benefits of a GI tag.(Photo by Shreekant Sahoo)
Sujay Pradhan, a coffee farmer, draws a parallel to rasagola. “Just as rasagola’s unique texture and flavour are attributed to Odisha’s specific climatic conditions and traditional preparation methods, Koraput coffee’s exceptional quality is closely linked to its terroir and the meticulous cultivation practices employed by local farmers.”
The secret to a great Koraput coffee, it turns out, is the way it is organically grown, and the red ripe cherries picked, dried, roasted, and ground. Bidiyadhar Choudhury, a coffee farmer, sheds light on the region’s sustainable and traditional coffee cultivation practices.
“Farmers employ sustainable methods, such as shade-grown farming and organic fertilisers, to protect the environment and maintain the delicate balance of the ecosystem. They carefully handpick the ripe cherries, ensuring that only the highest quality beans are selected for processing,” he said.
The narrative extends to the processing of Koraput coffee, an ode to the region’s rich heritage. The traditional wet-processing method, involving meticulous washing, fermentation, and sun-drying of beans, preserves the coffee’s delicate flavours, ensuring its exceptional quality.
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Despite its superior attributes, Koraput coffee awaits the global acclaim it deserves.
“A GI tag for Koraput coffee would bring about a sea change in its fortunes. It would provide legal protection against imitations. This would help promote the coffee to a wider audience and increase its market value,” Bidiyadhar Choudhury said.
The Koraput district administration echoes this sentiment, firmly supporting the quest for a GI tag for Koraput coffee. The district collector said: “We are confident that Koraput coffee meets all the criteria for a GI tag. The coffee is grown in a specific geographical area, Koraput district, and it has unique characteristics that are due to this origin.”
Koraput coffee emerges not just as a beverage but as a cultural heritage, waiting to be unveiled and celebrated on the grand stage of global recognition.
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The lead image at the top shows Koraput’s coffee plant grown through sustainable methods such as shade-grown farming and organic fertilisers. (Photo by Shreekant Sahoo)
Shreekant Sahoo is a senior journalist with a decade of dedicated experience in the ever-evolving field of media. He is a Rural Media Fellow 2023-24 at Village Square.
