During monsoon season, southern Kerala hosts Vallam Kali, a thrilling water sport. Snake boats called Chundan Vallams race for victory, drawing crowds from India and abroad to witness this spectacular event.
With centuries of ship-building tradition, the Malabar coast of South India rarely surprises anyone when it comes to producing skilled boatmakers. The Urus (large wooden ships) of Beypore, near Calicut, were an integral part of sea-borne trade in the Arabian Sea during the Middle Ages. The naval warriors of Malabar posed a significant threat to the Portuguese, who sought to control the spice trade during the early periods of European colonialism.
With 44 major rivers, numerous streams and freshwater lakes, and an extensive network of backwater channels, it’s no wonder that water navigation played a pivotal role in shaping Kerala’s cultural history.
There are historical anecdotes about rulers of erstwhile kingdoms engaging in naval warfare using snake boats. The story of Vallam Kali has distant connections to this tradition of warfare. Additionally, the many temples that line the banks of rivers and lakes in southern Kerala have traditional practices involving ornate snake boats.
While the ritualistic Uthrittathi Vallamkali in Aranmula is closely linked to the famous Parthasarathy temple on the banks of the Pampa River, other boat races like the Champakkulam Moolam Vallam Kali, the oldest snake boat race in Kerala, have a more secular or multi-religious character.
The most famous of these boat races in Kerala is the Nehru Trophy Vallam Kali, held on the second Saturday of August every year in Punnamada Lake in Alappuzha district. Traditionally, only men were allowed to set foot on these snake boats. However, there have been recent exceptions, with teams involving women participating in the snake boat races.
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Crafting a snake boat is a meticulous and intricate process, beginning nearly a year ahead of the upcoming snake boat race season. Every aspect of boat-making is overseen by a master carpenter with decades of experience in the field.
The initial step in crafting the boat involves selecting the right wood. Anjili wood, also known as Wild Jack (Artocarpus hirsutus), is the preferred choice for this purpose. Anjili, a tropical evergreen species native to the Western Ghats, is abundant in Kerala.
After acquiring the timber, it is expertly cut into planks of suitable length and width, then transported to the work site, typically located near the banks of a waterbody.
Sabu Narayanan Achary, a fifty-year-old master carpenter, leads the operations at Malippura, a boat-making shed situated on the banks of the Pampa River in Alappuzha district. The snake boat project is commissioned by the Melpadam Chundan Vallam Samithi (Melpadam Snake Boat Committee), with plans to launch it for the upcoming racing season. Sabu’s journey in this field began at the age of 17 when he assisted his father. After his father’s passing, Sabu, along with his elder brother, continued crafting snake boats until he ventured independently in 2010.
Sabu oversees a crew of eight, including six carpenters and two metalworkers. Renowned for his expertise spanning over three decades, Sabu has been entrusted with creating the finely balanced snake boat for the Melpadam Committee. The estimated cost of the new boat exceeds Rs 70 lakhs, with the wood alone accounting for around Rs 20 lakhs. Sabu’s choice of wood comes from a century-old Anjili tree with a diameter of 160 inches.
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For the central superstructure, Sabu selects three long planks that will form the Eraavu (bottom) and Mathaavu (two sides). Depending on wood and other requirements, the length of a snake boat can vary from 100 to 140 feet. Sabu employs a blend of both old and new technologies and measurement units in his boat-building process, utilising modern cutting machines and anti-corrosive paints alongside traditional wood tools and measuring units. Metal bolts and sheets are used to join the wooden planks, with careful consideration given to their expansion in hot weather, which could otherwise harm the boat.
This intricate process unfolds over 7-8 months. Once completed, the entire boat is coated with a mixture of coconut oil and turmeric, followed by a thick layer of fish oil and polish to protect it from the elements. A well-maintained snake boat can endure for up to 15 years.
Sabu’s craftsmanship ensures that the new boat can accommodate 95 people, including 83 sailors, five at the stern, and another seven amid the sailors to lead cheers and sing traditional Vanchipattu (boat hymns). Precise construction is crucial to maintain stability with such a crowd, especially in the stern section, which needs to stay above water at all times. Sabu emphasises that the most intricate part of this work is crafting the Amaram (stern or tail part) of the boat. The dimensions here must be absolutely precise. Any error could lead to capsizing during the boat’s launch.
Kuttappan, the president of the Melpadam boat committee, lauds Sabu’s skills, citing his history of crafting trophy-winning snake boats. Funding for the new boat is being raised through collective efforts and sponsorships. Kuttappan emphasises the committee’s impartiality, stating that they do not align with any religious or political group and have no intention of using their snake boat for religious or political purposes.
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Expert snake-boat makers and maintenance crews maintain a demanding year-round schedule. Baiju Bose, involved in snake boat maintenance, notes a significant increase in demand for his team’s services in recent years. This surge coincides with the emergence of new regional snake boat races across Kerala. These races, breaking the traditional monopoly of southern Kerala, are now being organised in central and northern Kerala, particularly around the time of the Onam festival.
The lead image at the top shows ornate snake boats on the banks of the Pampa River in Aranmula, Pathanamthitta district. The snake boat is called Palliyodam in Aranmula and is traditionally used for ritualistic purposes and races (Photo by Joyel K. Pious)
Joyel K. Pious is a Kerala-based photographer, writer and editor.
