West Bengal’s famous handloom industry in peril

The handloom industry of West Bengal, once a vital and fundamental part of its cultural and economic fabric, has been on the path of extinction in the aftermath of the COVID-19 pandemic. Historically renowned for its exquisite craftsmanship and innovative designs, the handloom sector in West Bengal has been facing an uphill battle, slowly losing its superiority, and heading to a rapid decline.

The lockdown had a devastating impact on handloom weavers and artisans in the state. Due to restrictions on movement and trade disruptions, the already fragile handloom industry was severely affected. 

Weavers, who mostly reside in rural areas, were left without access to raw materials, markets, or any source of income leaving them stranded and struggling to make a living. The lockdown had a devastating impact on the supply chain as well. The closure of markets and transportation restrictions made it impossible to acquire essential raw materials such as yarn and dyes, which are crucial for the production process. 

Furthermore, the closure of retail outlets and cancellation of orders caused a large inventory pile-up, worsening the financial difficulties of weavers who operate with high-interest loans from lenders.

The handloom industry relies heavily on traditional craftsmanship passed down through generations. The prolonged closure and lack of opportunities for earning led to a loss of skills and knowledge among artisans, further jeopardising the sector’s prospects. 

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Many young weavers, unable to sustain their livelihoods, were forced to seek alternative employment, and migrated to cities and often to other states resulting in a dwindling workforce in the handloom sector.

The absence of government support exacerbated the plight of handloom weavers in West Bengal. The absence of policy interventions and financial aid further weakened the already fragile ecosystem, pushing many weavers to the brink of poverty.

Another significant challenge faced by the handloom industry post-lockdown was the changing consumer preferences and market dynamics. With the rise of fast fashion and polyester products, traditional handloom goods struggled to compete in the market. 

Power looms, machines that can make production significantly faster and cheaper than handlooms, spelled doom for hand-weaving. After the lockdown, small weavers were unable to access government-supported organisations that offer fair prices for handloom products. This is due to rampant corruption, where large business owners sell their products instead. As a result, the artistry of Bengal is being slowly and surely destroyed, and may even vanish within a decade.

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Sudip Maiti is an independent photographer and filmmaker based out of Kolkata. He is the winner of the Chennai Photo Biennale 2023.