World’s highest hamlet – What it’s like to live at 4,500 metres
Komic village in Spiti valley of Himachal Pradesh stands as a unique blend of tradition and adaptation, where modern challenges meet ancient ways of life, and where the serenity of the Himalayas shapes every aspect of existence.
Unnati SharmaJul 12, 2024Komic, Lahaul and Spiti district, Himachal Pradesh
The occasional rumble of an automobile engine, the rustling of prayer flags caught in a strong gust from the snow-capped Himalayan mountains, or the lead bird’s quack from a migrating flock are among the few sounds that might disturb the profound peace at Komic village, world’s highest hamlet. Here, the hum of Buddhist chants forms a serene background score to the breathtaking scenery.
A sign from the Himachal Pradesh public works department greets visitors, proudly proclaiming Komic as the “highest village in the world accessible by road”. Perched at 4,587 metres, this remote settlement in Spiti valley of Himachal Pradesh stands nearly as high as half the height of Mount Everest.
Framed by the majestic mountains and the ever-present murmur of ancient Buddhist prayers, spirituality is woven into the very fabric of Komic, symbolised by its majestic monastery standing at 15,000 feet. One of the highest in the world, it draws pilgrims and tourists alike. Nearby Langza, just 10km away, features a 35-metre-tall Buddha statue in a meditative pose, further enhancing the region’s spiritual aura.
Komic is a place where time seems to slow down. With a population of 114 and just 12 households, each accommodating a few men and women alongside monks in residence, the village seems almost deserted upon arrival, its quiet streets betraying little of the vibrant life that unfolds within.
A group of young men, dressed in warm clothes, sunglasses and hats that shield their faces from the harsh mountain sun, are busy levelling the ground. Young men from a nearby village have also come to help out, showing the strong community spirit typical of Himalayan villages.
High-altitude living
Life in Komic is dictated by the rhythms of nature. From April to October, villagers tend to their fields of barley, potatoes, peas and green tea, ensuring they have enough provisions to last through the harsh winter months when snow blankets the land.
“We stockpile supplies for six months. In summer, we farm. In winter, we care for our animals and spend time indoors,” said Karma, a 24-year-old villager who has embraced the simplicity of rural life.
The village’s primary school — modest with just two rooms, two girl students and two teachers — caters to students up to class 5. For higher education, the youth of Spiti must venture downhill to cities like Shimla, Solan and Dharamshala.
Karma, who recently completed his B.Sc in Solan, exemplifies this journey. Yet, despite his academic achievements, he remains firmly rooted in Komic. “I am attached to this place. I like being here only, I don’t want to go anywhere else,” he said.
Surviving the heights
Village head Chhering Phunchok reflects on the transformations Komic has experienced.
“Earlier, this place was not highlighted much. Only serious trekkers and foreigners came to stay here to do different treks around the peaks,” he said.
The rise in popularity among Indian tourists, however, has brought new challenges. “Some irresponsible Indian tourists demand facilities like 24/7 tap water, warm water and English-style toilets. We use dry toilets and turn the waste into compost for farming. How do we provide them with these facilities?,” he said.
Beyond the clash of tradition and modernity, Komic faces practical challenges such as water scarcity, exacerbated by the presence of a high-altitude military training camp. Recently, villagers petitioned the ADC of Kaza for relief.
“We respect the Indian Army, but it would be better if the training camp is shifted somewhere else. The water shortage in our village is a real issue,” Chhering said.
Authorities have assured the villagers they are committed to finding a solution that balances local needs with national security considerations.
Tourism haven
Tourism, while providing much-needed income, also strains the village’s limited resources. “We cannot expand farming,” Karma said. “Water is scarce.” Despite these challenges, the community remains resilient, finding joy and camaraderie in various sports and cultural activities.
Kabaddi, cricket, tug-of-war, carrom, chess, badminton and card games keep the villagers engaged, culminating in lively inter-village tournaments that foster a strong community spirit.
Daily life in Komic is sustained by hearty, local fare. Staples like sattu mixed with barley, clarified butter from local cow milk, yogurt, locally sourced meat, black peas and lentils with rice form the core of their diet. This nourishing food, along with their tight-knit community and deep spiritual roots, helps the villagers thrive amidst the high-altitude challenges of their environment — where the air is rarefied, the winters are harsh — in world’s highest village.
The lead image on top shows Komic village in Spiti, Himachal Pradesh, surrounded by snow-clad Himalayan peaks. (Photo courtesy Chhering Phunchok)
Unnati Sharma is a journalist, writer, and translator. She has worked with ThePrint as a Senior Correspondent specialising in politics, in-depth features, and art and culture stories.